The Ultimate Winter Itinerary to Meghalaya: Discover the Hidden Gems
Year-end is that time of the year when we just want to not be productive and completely unwind from what lies ahead of us.
As 2023 was ending, we decided to take a quick trip to the magnificent Meghalaya in the northeastern part of India. One of the seven sisters, we had heard so much about what Meghalaya had to offer - from India's tallest plunge waterfall to Asia's cleanest village!
We decided to ring in the new year and explore this mesmerizing bucket list place from 28 Dec 23 to 1 Jan'24. Ideally, we like to plan our trips in their entirety, however, because of prior commitments and paucity of time, we decided to loop in WanderOn, a travel Consulting agency to help with itineraries and bookings.
While our overall experience with WanderOn was decent and we did not face any major hiccups, we felt there were a few things in the itinerary that could have been done better. So, we are taking this opportunity to share our experience with the incredible Meghalaya and what we would do better the next time we plan to visit this beautiful place.
Things to remember before planning :
On-road travel is extensive in Meghalaya. This itinerary involved on-road travel of around 6-7 hours daily.
Fewer vegetarian food options are available in Meghalaya. Most of the hotels/restaurants will take their last order by 7:30-8 PM; Hence it is important to call the property in advance and place your order.
Except for Shillong, you may not find lavish hotel properties across Meghalaya. Homestays/Guesthouses are popular amongst tourists. You can expect cleanliness and basic amenities across these properties, but the service levels can be sub-optimal.
Most of the tourist spots covered in this itinerary will involve a lot of walking. So, wearing comfortable clothing and sturdy hiking shoes is a must.
Public transport has limited connectivity across Meghalaya. Hence, most tourists prefer hiring cabs/taxis or self-driving a rental car.
Here's hoping, this blog post helps you plan that perfect trip to the lush green mountains and unmatched beauty of this state! Here is a glimpse :
5D 4N Itinerary to Meghalaya in Winters :
Detailed day-wise itinerary to exploring Meghalaya in Winters!
Day 1: Reaching Meghalaya and exploring Umiam Lake
Reaching Meghalaya - If you Google an itinerary to Meghalaya, more often than not the sample itinerary would suggest reaching Meghalaya via Guwahati (Assam). We took an early morning flight from Delhi and reached Guwahati at around 11 AM. We met our driver at the airport and hit the road to cover a 3.5-hour journey to Shillong.
[What we would have done differently]
While reading more about the possible routes to reach Meghalaya, we were pleasantly surprised to know about the recently operational domestic airport in Shillong with direct flights connecting a few of the major cities.
While the tickets to Shillong airport are comparatively more expensive than Guwahati, we would recommend flying directly to Shillong to save around 3-4 hours of travel by car. However, if you are planning on doing local sightseeing in Guwahati, then the first option is preferable. Although we booked our flights to Guwahati on the recommendation of WanderOn (Travel agency), in hindsight, we would have preferred to fly directly to Shillong because of the convenience.
The roads on this route are in great condition for most parts of the route, however, we did face a bottleneck while passing through Guwahati city as a lot of infrastructure construction was going on when we visited in December 2023.
After a quick halt at a roadside dhaba for lunch, we were headed straight towards our first pit stop - Umiam Lake. Nestled like a sapphire gem amid the rolling hills of Meghalaya, Umiam Lake is a mesmerizing masterpiece of nature's artistry. Umiam is a quiet and lovely place. It's a spot where you can feel relaxed and happy, surrounded by nature's beauty and we cherished one of the last few sunsets of 2023.
Boating at Umiam Lake is a popular tourist indulgence, however, we decided to give it a skip for a couple of reasons. Firstly, there was a 40-minute wait for the boat ride. As the sun sets early in North East, we would have lost a lot of sunlight before we got our turn. Secondly, we were taken aback a little when we got to know that it would have cost us around INR 1800 for a boat ride of ONLY 5 minutes.
We did not feel it was worth waiting for 40 minutes to enjoy a boat ride of 5 minutes, so instead we decided to explore the walking/jogging trail around Umiam Lake. And so glad, we did that! The trail is beautiful and has many points that provide stunning views of the lake.
After spending some time, we decided to head towards Shillong City and check into our hotel located in the famous Police Bazaar. After freshening up, we decided to explore Meghalaya's biggest market. As we visited around Christmas and New Year, the market was beautifully decorated and well-lit up.
This lively marketplace is a kaleidoscope of colors and cultures, offering a sensory delight to every visitor. Strolling through the lively stalls, one can discover a treasure trove of local handicrafts, traditional attire, and delicious street food that tantalizes the taste buds.
The market is so diverse and you can buy clothes, shoes, accessories, souvenirs etc from there. The quality was good for the price and your bargaining skills can help you get a solid deal! It usually stays open till around 8:30 PM.
After a shopping spree, we explored the local street food and then crashed into our hotel!
Day 2 : Meghalaya to Cherapunjee (Sohra)
After having our breakfast at the property, we hit the road around 8:30 AM towards Cherapunjee (~56km). Embarking on the winding roads that lead to Cherapunjee, is like entering a mystical realm where nature showcases its awe-inspiring grandeur. Renowned as one of the wettest places on Earth, Cherapunjee enchants with its lush landscapes adorned by cascading waterfalls, verdant hills, and mystical clouds that seem to dance with the mountains.
Tip: Don't underestimate the hilly roads of Meghalaya. While the distance may appear to be manageable, the roads are curvy and take a pretty long time to cover. Although the roads are pretty smooth, they do narrow down which doesn't leave much scope for overtaking easily.
Our first stop for the day was the mighty Laitlum Grand Canyon. As we stood at the edge of the canyon's precipice, the vastness of the landscape unfolded before our eyes, revealing a spectacular abyss adorned with rolling hills, lush valleys, and quaint villages amidst the clouds.
While we did enjoy the scenic mountains at Laitlum, the experience is said to be even better during monsoons when multiple waterfalls can also be spotted amongst the mountains. Public pay-per-use washrooms are available across all major tourist spots and more often than not they are well maintained.
After enjoying a Maggi and chai, we moved towards our next spot Mawkdok Dympep Valley. Around 25 km from Laitlum, it's a viewpoint for a quick photography halt. If interested, you can also zip line across the massive mountains of this valley (~ INR 500 per person).
As per our itinerary, WanderOn had recommended we cover the beautiful Lyngsiar Falls. We were pretty excited to witness multi-tiered waterfalls, however, our hearts sank when the driver told us that due to some local community issues, the way towards Lyngsiar Falls has been closed for the last few months and it is not recommended to go there.
This is where our hiccups with onboarding a travel agency began. The problem is that they usually provide copy-paste standard itineraries to all the clients and do not bother to connect with their local contacts to avoid such issues.
Our driver came to our rescue and suggested that we cover Garden of Caves instead. Meghalaya's Garden of Caves is like a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. As we explored these cool caves, we found it like entering a secret world below the ground! Stalactites hanging from the ceiling and streams flowing quietly added to the charm. The air inside was fresh, making it a refreshing escape from the outside.
We explored all the 11 viewpoints available in The Garden of Caves. The viewpoints successively became more and more interesting and we had a pretty good time there. We also bought a handmade bamboo water bottle as a souvenir from Viewpoint 10!
While in the original itinerary, the travel agency had suggested covering Mawsmai Caves and Nohkalikai Waterfall the next day; our driver suggested that we should cover these two spots on Day 2 itself because the journey on the next day would become tiring. In hindsight, that was one of the best decisions as it gave us enough and more time to explore on Day 3 withoiut cramping up the itnieary.
Given that I am a little claustrophobic, we decided to skip Mawsmai Caves, as it gets narrow in some places and it can get a little tricky to pass there. We went to Nohkalikai Waterfall.
As we approached the falls, the distant roar of water echoed through the air, building anticipation for the grand spectacle ahead. Nohkalikai, standing tall at approximately 1,115 feet, is the tallest plunge waterfall in India. The sight of water plummeting from the edge of the cliff creates an exhilarating display, leaving visitors mesmerized by the sheer force and grace of nature.
From there, we went straight to our hotel for the night and decided to relax while sipping on hot chocolate.
Day 3: Cherapunjee to Dawki/Shnongpdeng
Our driver suggested that we should leave for day 3 by 8 AM, so that we have enough time at all the places for today, especially because the road to Dawki is in very poor condition and will take some time.
So we had our breakfast and left accordingly. The roads towards Dawki are pretty narrow and have a few places that are prone to landslides. This patch is especially dangerous because there are a few blind turns and the person driving has to be extremely cautious.
After a few hours of road journey, we finally reached Asia's cleanest village -Mawlynnong. We had heard so much about this place and were excited to witness it.
The journey to Mawlynnong takes you through winding roads flanked by dense forests and vibrant greenery. Upon reaching the village, the first thing that strikes you is the meticulous cleanliness that defines every nook and cranny. The villagers take immense pride in maintaining their surroundings, and cleanliness is not just a virtue but a way of life.
Walking through the narrow lanes lined with traditional Khasi houses, each adorned with blooming gardens and vibrant flowers, I felt a sense of tranquility enveloping me. Mawlynnong's commitment to eco-friendliness is evident in every aspect of daily life, from the bamboo dustbins placed at regular intervals to the use of natural materials in construction.
[What we would have done differently]
After visiting the village, we STRONGLY believe everyone should plan to stay there for atleast 1 night. There are 100s of homestays available in the village at nominal prices and the experience to stay with the locals would have been exceptional. The itinerary provided to us did not mention this anywhere, otherwise we would not have left this opportunity. The village is pretty big and we did not have enough time to spend there because we were getting delayed for the next destination. This is something we do regret deeply.
After the village, we took a quick detour of around 10 minutes to reach the point for the Living Root Bridge.
Meghalaya has a lot of natural root bridges to offer, but this one, as we were told, required the least amount of effort to reach :D We had skipped the double root bridge because it was 3500 steps one way and required at least 6-7 hours to cover completely.
However, this single-root bridge near Mawlynnong was relatively much easier. It was around 400 meters from the parking spot and was not as treacherous. The living root bridge, a signature feature of Meghalaya, stands as a testament to the ingenious engineering skills of the Khasi community. As we crossed this natural marvel, surrounded by the symphony of birdsong and rustling leaves, we marveled at the symbiotic relationship between humans and the environment.
We admired the bridge, spent some time near the waterfall, and then left for our next leg of travel towards Dawki. A small town tucked away in the Jaintia Hills. Dawki, synonymous with pristine landscapes and crystal-clear waters, offers a tranquil escape that feels straight out of a dream.
The goal was to reach there with enough time to sunset so that we could go boating in the crystal clear water of the Umngot River. After reaching Dawki, we had a quick lunch and then went straight to the Govt owned boating shack. The boating costs INR 800 for 45 mins (seats 3 people).
Boating on the Umngot River is an experience like no other. The transparent waters allow you to see straight to the riverbed, revealing smooth pebbles and vibrant aquatic life beneath the surface. Gliding on a boat, the feeling is akin to floating in mid-air as the boat seems to hover over the unbelievably clear water.
There are many camping sites near the banks of Dawki which provide camping tents at nominal prices and shared washrooms.
[ What we would have done differently]
While camping was there in our original itinerary, we decided to switch to a homestay near the river. We had bittersweet experiences with camping sites in the past, which made us take this decision. However, we do strongly recommend camping for one night at Shnongpdeng (NOT DAWKI). A few things to keep in mind :
Shnongpdeng is about 30 minutes away from Dawki. If you do decide to camp, it is highly advisable to book a stay there instead of Dawki. Dawki has a lot of tourist rush and commotion, and Shnongpdeng is relatively calmer. Also, we saw that campsites were much better maintained there.
We thought It would be unbearably cold at the campsite given it was December. However, to our utter surprise, the temperature of this region is relatively hotter than the rest. We had to keep our ceiling fans switched on for the night!
The common shared washrooms are maintained decently well. We have had our share of horror stories with public washrooms, but this was not the case at Shnongpdeng.
After having traditional khasi thali, we called it a day and retired for the night.
Day 4: Dawki/ Shnongpdeng to Shillong via Jowai
We left at around 7:30 AM towards Shnongpdeng. Umngot River flows through Shnongpdeng and then reaches Dawki, so the clarity of the water is exceptional there as well.
There are a variety of activities like kayaking, cliff jumping, Zip lining, Scuba, Snorkeling, etc. We decided to rent a Kayak for 50 minutes at INR 500 and explore the transparent waters of the Umngot River.
There is a suspension bridge at Shnongpdeng which gives exceptional views of the river flowing beneath it and you can see the river bed.
Then we left for Jowai through a very scenic route and after traveling for a couple of hours we reached the impeccable Krang Shuri waterfalls. This was surely one of the highlights of our trip. There are around 400-500 steps to reach the waterfall, but that hassle was completely worth the spectacular views we saw there.
Upon reaching the falls, the sight is nothing short of breathtaking. Krang Shuri reveals itself as a multi-tiered cascade, with clear blue waters gracefully tumbling down the rocky cliffs. The vibrant greenery surrounding the falls adds a touch of freshness to the landscape, creating a mesmerizing contrast against the crystalline waters.
One of the unique features of Krang Shuri is the natural pool formed at its base. We climbed down to the lowest point and dipped our feet in the icy cold but relaxing water! A few Bravehearts also decided to swim (life jackets mandatory).
The climb back up was draining, to say the least, but definitely WORTH IT!
Dead tired of all the kayaking and trekking, we finally settled down in our car and then prepared ourselves for the 1.5-hour journey to Shillong!
We checked into our hotel, went out to explore the local market and street food and it was time to call it a DAY!
Day 5: Returning home: Shillong to Delhi
Happy, tired, and satisfied, we packed for one last time on this trip to leave for the airport. We had decided to save ourselves from a 3-hour drive back to Guwahati, and instead booked the flight back to Delhi from Shillong airport.
Given that it is a smaller and relatively new airport, we were expecting flight delays, but to our pleasant surprise, it was right on time! We took off from the small cute airport of Shillong and in the next 3 hours reached Delhi.
Meghalaya, with its ethereal landscapes and warm-hearted people, cast a spell on us. Each destination, whether it was a bustling city or a remote village, revealed a unique facet of Meghalaya's charm. The lush hills, crystal-clear waters, and the cultural tapestry woven by its people created an unforgettable experience that will forever linger in our hearts.
As we bid adieu to this Northeastern gem, we carried with us not just memories but a profound appreciation for the unspoiled beauty and timeless tranquility that Meghalaya generously shares with those fortunate enough to explore its enchanting realms.
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